Exploring Stone Town

Darren explored the winding alleys and markets of Stone Town, on a recent trip to Zanzibar.

“It was a bit of a flying visit to Zanzibar, but I managed to squeeze in a night in Stone Town before heading to the beaches – as all roads on the Island radiate from Stone Town, you’ll probably find yourself here at some point, but to my mind having a night or two here is well worthwhile. It’s about an hour to the main beach areas along the north, northeast and southeast coasts, so while it’s possible to visit the colourful capital of the island on a day trip, staying overnight gives you the chance to see a different side of things.

I stayed at the Zanzibar Serena Inn, set on the waterfront in the old telecommunications office – as with many of Stone Town’s hotels, it’s been converted from an old building (I personally like the Tembo House Hotel, formerly the US Consulate) which gives it real character that a purpose-built hotel can’t have. All of Stone Town’s historical interest is within a walk of the hotel, and as it’s quite a small, compact central area, location isn’t too important if you choose to stay the night.

As I arrived late in the afternoon, I started my exploration with a beer (the best way to start any exploration, to my mind!) and headed to the rooftop terrace at the Africa House Hotel, around the corner from the Serena Inn and looking out to sea. Relaxed and informal, this made a great place to unwind a little, and to sample the local Kilimanjaro beer (another one to add to my growing list of top international beers). After one or two too many I headed back to the Serena for dinner – I’d travelled from Mombasa via Dar Es Salaam today, so it had been a fairly long day.

Next day I was up early to explore Stone Town property, taking in the winding streets inland from the seafront. It’s a real maze and I found myself not really having a clue which direction I was pointing in, but it’s not a large place at all, so when I did get lost I just carried on walking, knowing it wouldn’t be long before I found myself either on the one main road, Creek Road, or in the sea! On my wanderings I came across St Joseph’s Cathedral, which was just emptying out after a service, and Darajani Market, where everything from spices and fresh fish to plastic tubs and car parts are for sale – quite an assault on the senses, especially in the fish area!

I was on a mission to buy some spices to take home, so headed to a shop just of Kenyatta Road. The choice was mesmerising – as was the aroma – with huge tubs of black pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon, coriander and dozens of other spices (many of which I didn’t recognise at all!) all for sale. My exploration continued via the Post Office and the house said to be the birthplace of Freddie Mercury, before finishing with lunch at the Beyt Al Chai, a small yet wonderfully atmospheric hotel that celebrates its history as a ‘house of tea’ and that’s typically Zanzibari – another fascinating option if you choose to spend a night or two in Stone Town.“

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